The 2026 season
Five trips from this year, from late snow on the Bucegi in May to autumn mist in Maramureș in October.
Each note starts with a trail card: a rough distance, how hard I found it, and the season I'd suggest. The numbers are approximate on purpose. They're there to help you decide whether a trip is for you, not to replace a map, a forecast or a conversation with the people who look after these mountains.
For effort I use my own simple scale. Easy means paths or lanes most walkers can manage. Moderate means a full day on marked mountain paths. Strenuous means steep, long or exposed ground. Hard means several days with a heavy pack, rough terrain, or both.
Maramureș
An autumn week of easy walking between villages, wooden churches with needle-thin spires, carved gates and haystacks in the morning mist.
Făgăraș
The famous hairpins over the Făgăraș on a quiet September weekday, a short walk above Bâlea Lake, and a few firm words about feeding bears.
Retezat
Slow days among granite boulders and cold blue lakes, a night of lightning over Bucura, and sunrise on the highest peak of the range.
Piatra Craiului
A narrow limestone crest with chains, steep drops, rare carnations and no water at all, and a race with the afternoon storms.
Bucegi
Late snow, wind-carved rocks and a sea of cloud on the high plateau above the Prahova valley, and a lesson in turning back when the fog rolls in.
Most mountain paths in Romania are waymarked with painted symbols on rocks, trees and poles: a simple shape in red, blue or yellow on a white background. Learn the symbol for your route before you set off, and if you haven't seen one for a while, go back to the last one you're sure of.
